Sunburn

Ro was tipsy. He had been drinking with his cousins at a bar. He liked to drink but he couldn't get "proper drunk" in India. Too much family around, too much judgment, too much head trash. The risk was not worth the reward, there was no place to dance and socialize. People just got drunk, talked shit, and went back to their homes to sleep. This was definitely not New York. One of Ro's cousins was new to drinking and did not know his limits. He had drunk two Budweiser's and was already starting to wobble. He had to be sent home, it was only 4 pm.

"Sisterfucker, what are we going to do today?" asked Abi. Abi was Ro's cousin and best friend.
"I don't know bro. Let's just eat some paan and figure it out," said Ro.

They walked over to a paan stand, which is on every street corner in Varanasi (a city in India), and got two paans. Paan is chewing tobacco, a beetle nut, and a bunch of other things that Ro couldn't pronounce all wrapped in a leaf. It was delicious though, this was their fourth paan of the day.

"I don't think we should have drank in front of Gaurav, he's too young," said Abi referring to another one of Ro's cousins.
"Why? He's 22. If he can't hang with his older brothers then who can he hang with?" asked Ro.
"You don't know how it is here man. These kids go home and they tell their parents everything. Then we're the ones that get in trouble."
"Dude, I know Gaurav motherfucker. He's a good kid and he knows better than to tell on me. He's a bro."
"I don't know dude. It makes me nervous."
"That's because you are a coward. You're afraid of everything. You're 32 years old bro, how are you still afraid of you're parents?"
"Sisterfucker, not all of us get to get on a plane and fly back to America. I have to sit here and deal with the consequences of all this."
"Yeah, I get that. But what is the worst that can happen?"
"Listen motherfucker, my parents know I am a fuck up. I still live at home and am just starting to make a decent living. I don't have a lot going for me. But at least they know that I don't drink or do drugs."
"But you do drink and do drugs."
"Yeah, but they don't know that yet. That's all I have going for me. We must keep the illusion alive."
"Whatever you say assface. Hey, wasn't there supposed to be that concert today? Gaurav was talking about it. Here he comes."

Gaurav had sent their drunk cousin home in a cab. He joined Abi and Ro.

"Yo, wasn't there a music festival today?" asked Ro.
"Oh yeah, Sunburn! Let me take a look," replied Gaurav as he took out his phone.
"What are we going to do at a music festival sisterfucker?" asked Abi. Abi did not like to try new things.
"I don't know. Drink, dance, maybe meet a girl. You know, fun things," replied Ro. Gaurav laughed still looking at his phone.
"Motherfucker this is Varanasi. There are no fun things here," said Abi.
"Dude, there is a music festival happening in my hometown while I am here. What are the odds of that? We have to go, just to say that we did. I could live for another 100 years and never have this opportunity again," said Ro.
"Yeah, it's tonight. Tickets are 1500 each," interjected Gaurav.
"Okay buy three. Are there VIP tickets?" asked Ro.
"Yeah there are, but they're 2500 each," replied Gaurav.
"Ok let's get VIP," said Ro. He had been to American music festivals in the past. The difference in experience between GA and VIP was large.
"2500! Are you mad?" asked Abi.
"Why are you so tense? I'm paying for it," replied Ro.
"We're brothers sisterfucker. You spend money, I spend money. You don't understand these things," said Abi.
"Ok well then you need to understand that you're brother has got this motherfucker," said Ro. The dollar went far in India. 7500 rupees was around $100. He looked at Gaurav. "Can we buy the tickets online?"
"Yeah it says we can, you need to enter you're card info," replied Gaurav. Ro proceeded to enter his card info.
"It's not working," said Ro. "Obviously."

This was not the first time Ro's credit cards did not work in India. He had run into this problem many times on this trip. It was a lot more expensive to take out cash than to use credit cards. The exchange rate fees on withdrawals were killer. Credit cards were also a lot safer. If someone steals you're credit card info, you can simply cancel the card. If someone steals you're ATM card and pin, good luck getting your money back. Ro and Abi had actually planned a trip to Goa for a week but it fell through because Ro's credit cards did not work. Goa is the one and only tourist destination in India. It had a beach and it was a party town. The two of them were pumped to go, to be away from their conservative families, and to let loose. Alas, it wasn't meant to be. Ironically Sunburn was an annual music festival held in Goa. Yet another reason for the three of them to go to the festival that night.

"My credit cards never fucking work here. Can we buy tickets at the door?" asked Ro.
"I don't know. They don't even have a phone number for us to call," replied Gaurav looking furiously through his phone. You could tell he really wanted to go.
"Just call the hotel they're hosting it at," suggested Ro.
"Ok, that's a good idea," said Gaurav. He dialed the number of the hotel and asked. "Yeah, they're saying you can buy tickets at the door."
"Perfect! What time does it start?" asked Ro.
"Says doors open at 5. Shit we're already late," said Gaurav.
"No we're not," said Ro with a laugh. "The party won't really start till 8pm."
"Ugh, why do I have to go?" interjected Abi.
"C'mon bro, it will be fun! We didn't get a chance to party in Goa. Well, Goa came to us. We have to go. It's a sign from the Gods," said Ro.
"You guys go," said Abi.
"You're going sisterfucker, you both are," said Ro.
"Shit! We have to go home! I have a black jacket that would look sick tonight," said Gaurav. Ro and Abi laughed.

Gaurav was bit of a metrosexual. Nothing wrong with that. Ro also cared a good bit about his appearance, a value he inherited from his father. "It doesn't matter what you are going through, you should always look sharp. When you look good you feel good." That's what his father always said. Apparently, Gaurav inherited this trait as well. It made sense, Ro's father and Gaurav's father were brothers. Growing up in India, Gaurav didn't have a ton of exciting things to look forward to. He had school, he had his friends, and he had video games. Dating was difficult because Indian families were very conservative. Having a girlfriend was done on the down low. Parents could never find out. So Gaurav had to get his kick from other things. He had a passion for clothes and taking cool pictures of himself. Very on par with the rest of his generation. He loved Instagram.

The three of them went back to their respective houses and got ready. Gaurav and Ro stayed in the same house. Abi lived in another. Gaurav changed his entire outfit. All Ro did was put a few condoms in his pocket. Safety first. Hey, they were going to a music festival after all. Anything could happen, even in Varanasi. Plus there was a hotel right there. Ro got on the back of Gaurav's motorcycle and the two of them left to meet up with Abi.

"So, do you have a girlfriend?" asked Ro while on the motorcycle. Motorcycle conversations were the best.
"No," replied Gaurav.
"How disappointing, you're 22 years old and you don't have a girlfriend?"
"The girls at my college suck. All the good ones get taken early. I'm not going to settle so I just decided to focus on other things."
"I hate it when that happens." Gaurav spoke to Ro's soul.

The two of them met Abi at their go-to paan stand. Paan number five. Gaurav had to go get gas for his bike so Ro waited with Abi. When Gaurav got back, Ro slyly got on the back of Abi's bike and the three of them were off. Ro preferred riding with Abi. Gaurav was young and he liked to drive fast. And he would swerve for no reason. Ro never said anything, he knew what it was like to be young. You feel invincible and you like to show off. Youth is wasted on the young. Abi drove at a good comfortable pace. Plus Ro could talk about a lot more things with Abi than he could with Gaurav. The age difference played a role there.

"Should I get cash?" asked Ro.
"Nah, should be fine," replied Abi.

They should have gotten cash. The music festival was a 20-minute drive outside of the city. There was no guarantee of ATMs that far out. The drive went by quickly and the three of them reached the festival. Ro walked up to the counter and asked for the tickets. They didn't accept credit cards. Of course they didn't. This was the worst-case scenario. Ro asked the clerk where the nearest ATM was and the clerk told him a few kilometers up the road. He and Gaurav got on the bike and drove off to find the ATM. Abi wanted no part of the journey. They drove a couple of kilometers on the road and there was no ATM to be found. They asked people on the side of the road. The response was always, "a little bit further down the road." Before they knew it they were 4 kilometers away from Sunburn.

Then they saw an ATM. Ro put in his card and the transaction was immediately declined. Guess they don't take Chase. Ro and Gaurav drove on. They spotted another ATM and this time Ro's card worked. Thank god. He took out 10,000 rupees. Fifteen minutes later they were back at the ticket window with Abi. Ro asked for VIP tickets. They were 2000 rupees. Only in India will tickets at the gate be cheaper than the tickets online. Ro could see the disgust on Abi's face. They were in. The three of them walked to the bar to get some drinks. Well, it wasn't as much of a bar as a room with a table that had drinks.

"Does VIP get any free drinks?" asked Ro to the bartender.
"No, but VIP plus gets 2 free beers," replied the bartender.
"So what's the benefit of VIP?" asked an annoyed Ro.
"You're closer to the stage, and you have seats," replied the bartender.
"Do you guys have tequila?" asked Ro. He knew the answer.
"No. We have vodka, rum, and beer," replied the bartender. They never had tequila anywhere in India.

They got two vodka sodas and a Coke for Gaurav. Whether Gaurav didn't drink or didn't want to drink with his elders was unclear. Neither Abi nor Ro thought too much of it though. They took their drinks and went towards the stage. The stage was set up in a large outdoor field. To the left were seats for the VIP. Bright colors were flashing from the stage but there was no music playing. The stage technicians were still running their tets. Ro's crew was very early. The only people that were there were a group of senior citizens.

"Why are there so many old people here?" asked Ro.
"This is India. Everything is a family event. They are probably the ones throwing the event. Or the sponsors," replied Abi.
"Sisterfucker," said Ro. Gaurav laughed. He always laughed when Ro cursed, it was strange to see an American curse in Hindi.
"I told you this would be a waste of time," said Abi.
"Relax motherfucker, it's very early. This will be a party. I can feel it," said Ro.
"Yeah, and where are the women?" asked Abi.
"If you build it, they will come. Have some patience," replied Ro.
"This is Varanasi. Women don't just go out like that," said Abi.
"Let's just get some food in the meantime. The show will start soon," suggested Ro.

The three of them went to the food area, which was by the entrance, and got some street food. Gaurav and Abi got chaat and Ro got some pav bhaji, his absolute favorite.

"Dude this pav bhaji is amazing," said Ro.
"Yeah and those prices are amazing too," said Abi.
"You're at a festival, the prices are going to be high. This is how they make money," said Ro.
"They're motherfuckers, that's why the prices are high. We paid so much to get in, and now we have to pay so much for the food," said Abi as he furiously ate his chaat. "Motherfuckers I tell you. There isn't even any paan here for fucks sake."
"You eat bro, and let daddy Ro worry about the cost," said Ro laughing.
"You really are a sisterfucker you know that," said Abi.
"I know, I'm the king of all sisterfuckers," replied Ro.

After finishing their food the three of them went back to sit in the VIP section. Thirty minutes passed and not much changed. The stage technicians were still running their tests. A few more people trickled in but it was mostly older men. It was also starting to get colder. Shit, maybe Abi was right. You can't have this kind of fun in India, especially not in Varanasi. Ro, for the first time since he thought of the idea, was starting to worry that this night would not be the epic night he planned. He looked out at the field in front of the stage and how empty it was and it made him sad. It was already almost 8pm, how was all that space going to get filled?

Then a girl in a red dress hopped up on stage. She introduced the show. There were going to be three performers. The first was an Indian DJ, the second was an Indian rapper, and the third and final performer was Olly Esse. A famous Italian DJ who was so famous that Ro had never heard of her. The girl in the red dress encouraged the crowd to make some noise but there wasn't enough of a crowd to make any noise. And the crowd that was there was either too lame or too cool to make a sound. Ro felt bad for the girl in the red dress. The music started in anticipation of the first DJ. Ro had pretty much accepted defeat. Maybe he could make Abi and Gaurav stay another hour before heading home. Some fucking party. Total waste of time and money.

Then something magical happened. More and more people started coming in. At first, it was just more families but then also groups of women. Ro couldn't believe his eyes. Neither could Abi. Then the DJ got on stage and he was a fucking revelation. He was playing Bollywood hits and people were starting to move a bit. Then it happened. An older lady went to her entire contingent of youngsters and yelled at them to go dance.

"If you wanted to sit you could have done that at home! Go dance!"

Damn right. God bless that lady. She single-handedly saved the party. Her entire family immediately got on the dance floor and started dancing. Her family consisted of mostly young women. Dancing is one of those things that is highly contagious. All it takes is a few confident people to start the party and the rest takes care of itself. More and more people joined the party.

Ro got up and joined the party, giving middle fingers to his cousins who were still sitting down in the process. Once he got on the lawn to dance Ro finally started to have fun. More and more people joined. Ro's cousins joined. A full-blown party had broken out. The DJ was killing it. The organizers of the event realized that there wouldn't be enough people in VIP to fill up the space so they let the people in GA move up. Thank God. Everyone that Ro could see was dancing. It was like a party in New York or London. It was like Bonnaroo. But this wasn't New York, London, or even Manchester, Tennessee. This was Varanasi, India. Damn right it was!

"So, what do you think now sisterfucker?" Ro asked Abi while they were dancing.
"Dude I am so happy I could kiss you," said Abi putting his arm around Ro. "Let's get another drink!"
"Oh, now you want to party!" said Ro putting his arms around Abi and Gaurav. "Well then let's fucking party!"